Bonaire Unhurried:A Deep Dive into Slow Travel in Bonaire
Many travelers visit Bonaire for a week or two to take in the beautiful snorkeling and diving in Bonaire. We’ve found Bonaire to be an excellent place for active slow travelers in early retirement. It’s easy to fly directly from the Bonaire airport to the United States, the Netherlands, and the Dominican Republic, as well as to take inter-island flights to Aruba and Curacao.
Darren and I have traveled to Bonaire for two to three months per winter since 2021. We’re planning a month-long trip to Bonaire in early 2024. In this article, we will tell you about slow travel on Bonaire, why slow travel on Bonaire might be for you, and why we keep coming back.
About Us
Darren and I left corporate careers in our late 40s after 20+ years each in agriculture science. We are semi-nomadic and spend a few months a year in a small house in the Great Plains of the United States.
We spend 40 - 120 days per year thru-hiking in Europe and about 90 days yearly in the Caribbean and Central America. This blog documents our journey to nomadic living, financial independence, and lifestyle adjustments to make our post-W2 lifestyle work.
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What Is There to Do Bonaire?
The small island of Bonaire has a lot to offer active slow travelers in addition to its world-famous shore diving. Here are a few of the best things to do on Bonaire and why we keep going back for one or more months yearly:
Snorkeling to observe Bonaire’s marine life and biodiversity
Windsurfing
Birdwatching
Deep sea fishing
Boating/Sailing
Hiking
Relaxation and tranquility
Environmental conservation of bird and mangrove habitat
Cultural heritage
What is special about the island of Bonaire?
The pace of the island combined with the beautiful scenery creates a tranquil atmosphere that still invites adventure. It is a wonderful place to reset and reconnect. We return year after year because we enjoy the benefits of slow travel, which is so different than the travel we experienced in our corporate careers—and this island offers many of those benefits. We’ll start by sharing a couple of things the island is known for, and then we’ll dive into the qualities of the island that make it so special for slow travelers.
An Abundance of Snorkeling and Diving Sites
The must-have book (or ebook) for Bonaire is the Reef Smart Guide. There are so many snorkeling and dive sites, it would take months to do every one! We recommend purchasing this book during your planning process, as it really helps you get the lay of the land before stepping onto the island.
The Bonaire Reef Smart Guide is like having a personal underwater tour guide in your pocket. It's a waterproof, durable, compact guidebook that's perfect for snorkelers and divers alike. It's designed with every level of underwater adventurer in mind!
When we received the guide, we were immediately impressed with the vivid and detailed illustrations. The pages are filled with full-color maps and images that make identifying the dive sites and marine life a breeze. Each location has its own section, complete with crucial information, such as the best entry and exit points, and highlights of the marine life you can expect to encounter.
What we loved most about the Reef Smart Guide was its comprehensive coverage. It goes beyond just the famous dive spots like Salt Pier and 1000 Steps and includes hidden gems and less-explored areas, allowing you to create your own unique underwater adventure. You can plan your dives or snorkeling in advance, or even use the guide on the spot to make impromptu decisions depending on your mood and preferences.
The book has detailed descriptions of the marine life you're likely to encounter at each dive site. Whether it's colorful coral formations, friendly sea turtles, or schools of vibrant fish, the guide paints a clear picture of what to expect.
The guide also provides some valuable tips and safety guidelines for responsible diving and snorkeling. It promotes eco-conscious practices and respect for the marine environment, ensuring we can continue to enjoy these stunning waters for years to come.
Tropical Climate—But Not Too Hot and Humid
In addition to an abundance of nature and outdoor activities, the climate in Bonaire is tropical, with highs typically between 77°F to 90°F. Like most tropical islands, Bonaire can get stormy weather, as it is located outside the Caribbean hurricane belt.
Expect pop-up showers any time of day or night. If the volume and intensity of the rain are significant, this can impact snorkeling and diving visibility. One of the upsides of being a slow traveler on Bonaire is that you can wait a day or two for visibility in the water to improve and use the downtime to take in some land-based adventure or catch up on grocery shopping or cooking.
There’s also often a breeze or wind, especially between November and March. Many rental units have washing machines or an outdoor sink for washing clothes. The robust breezes speed up outdoor clothes drying time.
Why Active Slow Travelers Might Like Bonaire
We’ve written before about the advantages of slow travel and why we love it. We keep returning to Bonaire as it has several aspects that facilitate slow travel.
Three-Month Stay for US Passport Holders
If you’re looking for a long and leisurely stay, Bonaire is a great destination. Americans can stay 90 consecutive days in Bonaire as tourists. After leaving Bonaire for 90 days, an American traveler can return for another 90 days. To learn more about entry requirements and travel restrictions, check out Getting to Bonaire.
Accommodations with Private or Shared Kitchens
The island’s tourism has grown around diving. Most divers are not interested in elaborate resort accommodations, so the island offers an abundance of self-catering apartments, condos, and homes. Most of these come with private kitchens.
Some boutique accommodations (think upscale hostel) offer shared kitchen spaces. This can be a great way to reduce costs. You get the privacy of your own room and bathroom and share a large kitchen and public space with a handful of other active travelers from around the world.
Long-Term Stays with Discounted Prices
Accommodations have a variety of price points. At the higher end are large sprawling homes with many bedrooms and infinity pools north of Kralendijk, which can cost hundreds or thousands of dollars per night.
The majority of apartments are two or three-star level and average around $125 per night. When you rent by the month, you can get similar accommodations for under $80 per night. These accommodations are significantly cheaper than similar near-ocean accommodations in the U.S.
While you can use platforms like Airbnb, Booking.com, and VRBO, we’ve found that the best way to book a place on Bonaire is to work directly with the owner or property manager. You’re more likely to get a discount and access to a potential private car rental by booking directly with the owner or on-site manager.
Once you locate the properties of interest to you, research them on Google Maps. There, you will often find the owner’s website, which will list their phone number and/or email. When messaging with the owner or manager, use WhatsApp. Instead of reserving by credit card, you’ll typically wire a deposit and pay the balance in cash (US Dollars or Euros) upon arrival.
Cheap Monthly Rental Cars and Scooters
You don’t need a rental car to enjoy Bonaire, but if you plan to do hiking, snorkeling, or diving most days, you’ll want a rental SUV or scooter.
For more personal experience and a better deal, work directly with local providers for cheaper monthly rental cars and scooters. Every time we’ve been on the island, we hear horror stories from travelers regarding their experiences with the multinational branded car rental companies on the island.
To save money and to have a more friendly experience, you’ll find better deals by getting at least a mile away from the cruise ship port and airport. These cars, SUVs, and scooters aren’t as new and shiny as the ones in front of the airport, but they’ll get you from point A to point B in a vehicle that looks like it belongs to a local.
For about $1000 per month, you can rent a 4x4 SUV from Bon4Rent. We had a great experience with them in 2023 and will use them again in 2024. We’ve also had good experiences with ABCarrental. For scooters, we’ve heard great reviews on Little John Scooters.
Instead of reserving by credit card on a fancy website, you’ll typically wire a deposit (or pay via PayPal) and pay the balance in cash (US Dollars or Euros) upon arrival.
Snorkeling and Diving Gear for Rent or Purchase
If you’re a full-time nomad and don’t travel with snorkel or diving gear, rest assured that you can rent or buy equipment in Bonaire. When friends or family visit us on Bonaire, we send them to Buddy Dive or Dive Friends. Both have store locations in Kralendijk and make it easy to get the gear you need for snorkeling and diving.
A Wealth of Grocery Stores
This is one of the main reasons we keep returning to Bonaire—the abundance of fresh fruits, vegetables, and meats that can be purchased on the island.
You won’t find one-stop shopping on Bonaire, meaning you might have to stop at two or three stores to get what you are looking for. Thankfully, our favorites are all close to each other. Our go-to grocery stores on Bonaire are Van Den Tweel, Warehouse Bonaire, and BonDiGro. For wine and spirits, our favorite is Bottles.
The Bounty of Restaurants on Bonaire
While many of us slow travelers are cooking at our monthly rentals, it’s great to get out and explore the dynamic dining scene on Bonaire.
If you’re looking for a place to celebrate a birthday, anniversary, or other special occasion, we highly recommend Chefs Bonaire or Brass Boer. While this is higher-end dining, you won’t need a fancy outfit to dine at either place. Be warned, though—you’ll need to reserve months in advance to get a reservation! Alternatively, contact them before you arrive to get on the cancellation list.
For a complete list of dining and dining customs on Bonaire, check out this article by InfoBoniare.
What Else Should I Know Before Traveling to Bonaire?
Before you decide if Bonaire is right for your slow travel plans, you’ll want to know the basics of how travel on the island works, and what you’ll need to be comfortable during your stay on the island.
Short-Term SIM Plans and Phone Coverage for Bonaire
If you have Google FI, you’ll have phone and data when you land in Bonaire. If you’re concerned that Google FI may shut down your data package if your stay is too long in Bonaire, procure a monthly Tourist SIM at Digicel in downtown Kralendijk. If your stay exceeds a month, simply return to the store, and they will top you up.
Most lodging will have DSL internet access. However, it can be slow as not a lot of lodgings have fiber internet. When we stayed at Kas Tortuga in Crown Ridges, we had excellent fiber internet. At Casa Calexico in Kralendijk, the DSL was very good until dinner time, when all the guests had returned to their apartments. Check with your long-term rental about what internet service is available.
What Languages Are Spoken on Bonaire?
Bonaire has a unique culture influenced by its blend of indigenous roots, African heritage, and European and Latin American influences. You’ll hear Dutch, English, Papiamentu, and Spanish spoken on Bonaire.
What Is The Currency of Bonaire?
The currency in Bonaire is the United States dollar. When paying for a rental apartment or a rental car, you may be presented with the option to pay in U.S. dollars or Euros.
Is There Healthcare on Bonaire?
With over 15,000 residents, yes, there is a hospital on Bonaire, as well as a medical clinic. We’ve also seen dentists, eye doctors, and physical therapy offices on Bonaire. If you have a medical condition that requires attention that can’t be provided on the island, you’ll likely get treated in Columbia.
When traveling to Bonaire as a slow traveler, we recommend you get an expat health care plan. You can read more about how we get and pay for our worldwide health care here.
Who Might Not Like to Go to Bonaire?
Bonaire is not for everyone. Here are some features of travelers that might not like Bonaire:
People who want a consistent air-conditioned experience
People looking for a large chain resort like Sandals or theme parks
People who don’t enjoy being in nature
People looking for a suburban shopping experience and suburban conveniences
People who have a hard time relaxing or unplugging
In Conclusion
Bonaire has a lot to offer for active slow travelers looking to spend a month (or three) in the Caribbean outside the hurricane belt. The type of people who would enjoy an extended stay in Bonaire are nature lovers, sports enthusiasts, and those seeking an authentic Caribbean experience.
Have you traveled in Bonaire? We’d love to hear about it! Share your experiences in the comments!
